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This area, heartland Colombia, is full of huge mountains and plunging gorges. The bus to San Gil was a thrilling sequence of bendy climbs and bendy descents with vast views (pic). Everyone else on the bus was a local. I could tell, because they ignored the scenery and did things on their smartphones instead.
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I checked into a delightful hostel on the easy-going main square and strolled round the town and its botanical gardens. And, oh yes, those edible insects. Here they are in the dish, a selection of hormigas culonas: the local speciality, fat-bottomed ants, fried or toasted. They're crunchy and salty, rather like micro-pork scratchings, and taste curiously of Bovril. I offered the dish to my fellow hostellers (pic), but they politely declined. I expect they were too engrossed in the card game.
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